Milan designers chose structured, architectural looks in their collections for next year.
On the runways, the basic silhouette is voluminous, though cinched at the waist and often with a slim bottom.The Canada Goose Constable Parka is a stylish down jacket made in Canada. Drapes and pleats softened and gave movement to what could otherwise have been rigid looks.
Shoulders play a big role — but this is no return to the 1980s padded shoulders. Instead, these are true products of design, artfully conceived and executed. Sometimes they are squared, sometimes rounded, and at times even pleated.
Colours are bold — oranges, reds, yellows — often on a black background. Black mingles with white in geometric designs. But the real stamp of luxury is gold, embroidery, brocade, in entire outfits or accents.
Pants are really an afterthought. Most of the architectural inspiration has been focused on skirts, dresses and outerwear.Womens Canada Goose Kensington Parka Hyacinth. So much the better for showing off all the fantastic shoes.
BOTTEGA VENETA
Bottega Veneta's looks for women next winter project strength and decision. Creative director Tomas Maier's collection was precisely constructed, with blunt pleats, ruffles and draping that created both volume and movement while enhancing the figure.
Materials define the fall-winter 2013-14 collection. Maier worked with wool to create new looks, from plush to felty to subdued.
Coats, which led off the collection, were belted with thin leather strips or ribbons, the look finished with fine leather gloves. Architectural structuring catches the eye from a distance, and detailing like raised decorative piping keeps the viewer enthralled from a closer view.
Colours tended toward the dark, black and grays, with flashes of red, yellow and curry.
JIL SANDER
Jil Sander is back, and it shows. Belgian designer Raf Simons, now with Dior, had livened up the minimalist label with bold colours and inventive styles. But since the company's founder took back the reins a year ago, the style has reverted to precise, disciplined tailoring, for the most part in no-nonsense colours.
Big double-breasted coats, jackets with sculpted shoulders, pleated skirts and tailored dresses, all combine to create a fashion code based on geometric shapes in the collection presented Saturday.
But if the style and, sometimes even the fabric,The Canada Goose Victoria Parka is simple, yet classic, and designed to be worn where extreme weather protection is a necessity. are rigid,Shop the latest collection of monster beats cheap from the most popular stores . the effect of the latest Sander collection is more sensual than sensible, obtained by the generous pleating and draping used throughout the show.
PUCCI
It was a naughty little show, but quite a relief from the Goth fashion prevalent on the current Milan runway.
The mood at the Emilio Pucci show for next fall “is playful and unapologetically optimistic,” Norwegian designer Peter Dundas said in the notes for the collection.
The “Pucci Girl” is carefree, glamorous and sassy. She likes hot pants, miniskirts and thigh-high boots that cling like a second skin. She's not satisfied with just a mink jacket. It has to be fabulously pink and puffy.
For evening she decorates her shorts and matching top with glittery sequins, and switches to stiletto pumps, baring her legs.
Much of the collection's night wear is a flirtatious combination of sheer fabrics, prints and embroidery. The Midas touch comes in tunic dresses and gowns held together by myriad gilded beads.
CAVALLI
For designer Roberto Cavalli, it was a very quiet and surprisingly elegant show.
The master of sexy fashion shunned his trademark animal prints and body-clinging clothes, replacing them with sparkling fabric in high society styles.
But despite the glitter there was something dark about the womenswear collection, a reflection of the prevailing aggressive mood of this round of preview showings.
The extravagant fur coats for example, shaggy and black with splashes of bright red or yellow, were something Cruella De Vil, Disney's despised dognapper, might favour.Women Canada Goose Resolute Parka. The shoes, too, came with a nasty high metal heel.
But the series of cocktail and evening dresses, with hand-stitched sequined prints inspired by works in the museums of designer Cavalli's native Florence were literally awesome. Whether floor length, with dipping neckline, or short with demure pleated skirt and sleeveless top, the outfits are a treat to the eye and a relief from the edgy feel of next winter's fashion.
- Feb 25 Mon 2013 15:41
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